The height is somewhat subjective if you are going to use false fronts. That is; if the box will just be a box and the front is separate. I score the path with a marking knofe or an X-Acto knife to prevent tearout.
For 1/2" B ply (which is something close to 1/2" in mm) I set the bit height at a shy 3/8". The depth of cut for the front/back is equal to the thickness of the drawer material. I just use a piece of the actual material as a setup block to set the fence depth equal to the material width.
The joint can be adjusted by very, very slight changes in bit height. Once you find your perfect fit, run a piece of hardwood through, cut it off to about 6" in length and write something like "1/2" BB ply" on it with felt pen and toss it in a drawer for next time.
I think I have some better pics at home. If so I will post them tonight. Also I have an improved tall fence thread here.
Almost forgot; a good tip is to run the profile on a board that is a little more than (for example) 4 times taller than the drawer sides you want to make. You can then rip the material to width (height) and end up with a clean edge where the joint takes place.
Last edited by glenn bradley; Yesterday at 07:31 PM.
Source: http://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=24534
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